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Angie
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Orchid Potting Mix
1 part peat moss
6 parts fir bark
1 part medium grade charcoal
1 part peat moss
6 parts fir bark
1 part medium grade charcoal
Posted by
Angie
comments (3)
Light:
Orchids like bright light but do not like direct sun. They have approximately the same light conditions as African Violets between 1000 to 1500 foot candles. The foliage should appear yellow-green not dark green if the light is correct. If the leaves are dark green or the new leaf growing longer and narrower than the old leaf is an indication that the light is too low.
Temperature:
The ideal day temperatures are between 65 and 85 F. (18 - 29 C). Ideal nighttime temperatures are between 55 and 65 F. (13-18 C). The normal home temperature of 72 - 78 F. (22 - 26 C.) is fine for Phalaenopsis. If you are comfortable with the temperature, Phalaenopsis will be as well. In the fall Phalaenopsis need the temperature to fall below 60 F. (16 C.) for three weeks to induce the plant to initiate a flower spike. A spike should start to appear about three weeks after this cold treatment. It is possible to grow Phalaenopsis under artificial light. Grow them 9 to 12 inches under fluorescent grow lights or 4 to 6 feet under 400 watt high intensity discharge lights or high pressure sodium lights. Your Phalaenopsis should have a flower spike growing by February. If it does not have a spike by then move it to where it will receive more light. Even a small incandescent light can make a difference.
Humidity:
Phalaenopsis orchids appreciate a more humid environment between 40% - 70 % relative humidity. One way to increase the humidity is to put a plate or saucer with little pebbles in it and put water in it. Put the orchids ABOVE the water. This increases the humidity around the plant. Phalaenopsis like it when the humidity is relatively high. You can also use humidity trays that are designed expressly for this purpose. They are usually plastic and have a reservoir for the water and a tray that holds the plants above the water. Usually they come apart for easy cleaning.
Plants should be thoroughly watered when approaching dry but prefer not to completely dry out. In my conditions that is about once every week to ten days. However when in doubt, go drought. DO NOT use water that has been water softened as it can kill your orchids. It is important to give the plant a complete drenching when you water. It is best to water early in the day so that the leaves dry out. Do not leave water collected in the crown of Phalaenopsis as they are prone to crown rot. If necessary use a paper towel or something like that to soak up the puddle of water in the crown. Or have your Phalaenopsis located somewhere where it gets very good air circulation.
One good method to water plants is to put them in a sink and run water through the pot 3 or 4 times over a 15 minute period. Then, if it is time to fertilize do it then as the roots have swollen somewhat and can absorb the nutrients.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize with a balanced formula every two weeks, however dilute the fertilizer to between 1/4 and 1/2 the recommended strength of the dilution. The adage is "weakly, weekly". That said it is best to reduce the amount of fertilizer during the winter months when most plants are not in active growth. Do not fertilize orchids when they are dry. Only fertilize after you have given the plant a good drenching and the "velamen" has had a chance to absorb some water. Velamen, you ask? Velamen is the name of the thick spongy outer layer of cells on the roots of epiphytic orchids that absorbs moisture from the surroundings. That way your plant can properly uptake the nutrients in the fertilizer.
Orchids like bright light but do not like direct sun. They have approximately the same light conditions as African Violets between 1000 to 1500 foot candles. The foliage should appear yellow-green not dark green if the light is correct. If the leaves are dark green or the new leaf growing longer and narrower than the old leaf is an indication that the light is too low.
Temperature:
The ideal day temperatures are between 65 and 85 F. (18 - 29 C). Ideal nighttime temperatures are between 55 and 65 F. (13-18 C). The normal home temperature of 72 - 78 F. (22 - 26 C.) is fine for Phalaenopsis. If you are comfortable with the temperature, Phalaenopsis will be as well. In the fall Phalaenopsis need the temperature to fall below 60 F. (16 C.) for three weeks to induce the plant to initiate a flower spike. A spike should start to appear about three weeks after this cold treatment. It is possible to grow Phalaenopsis under artificial light. Grow them 9 to 12 inches under fluorescent grow lights or 4 to 6 feet under 400 watt high intensity discharge lights or high pressure sodium lights. Your Phalaenopsis should have a flower spike growing by February. If it does not have a spike by then move it to where it will receive more light. Even a small incandescent light can make a difference.
Humidity:
Phalaenopsis orchids appreciate a more humid environment between 40% - 70 % relative humidity. One way to increase the humidity is to put a plate or saucer with little pebbles in it and put water in it. Put the orchids ABOVE the water. This increases the humidity around the plant. Phalaenopsis like it when the humidity is relatively high. You can also use humidity trays that are designed expressly for this purpose. They are usually plastic and have a reservoir for the water and a tray that holds the plants above the water. Usually they come apart for easy cleaning.
Plants should be thoroughly watered when approaching dry but prefer not to completely dry out. In my conditions that is about once every week to ten days. However when in doubt, go drought. DO NOT use water that has been water softened as it can kill your orchids. It is important to give the plant a complete drenching when you water. It is best to water early in the day so that the leaves dry out. Do not leave water collected in the crown of Phalaenopsis as they are prone to crown rot. If necessary use a paper towel or something like that to soak up the puddle of water in the crown. Or have your Phalaenopsis located somewhere where it gets very good air circulation.
One good method to water plants is to put them in a sink and run water through the pot 3 or 4 times over a 15 minute period. Then, if it is time to fertilize do it then as the roots have swollen somewhat and can absorb the nutrients.
Fertilizer:
Fertilize with a balanced formula every two weeks, however dilute the fertilizer to between 1/4 and 1/2 the recommended strength of the dilution. The adage is "weakly, weekly". That said it is best to reduce the amount of fertilizer during the winter months when most plants are not in active growth. Do not fertilize orchids when they are dry. Only fertilize after you have given the plant a good drenching and the "velamen" has had a chance to absorb some water. Velamen, you ask? Velamen is the name of the thick spongy outer layer of cells on the roots of epiphytic orchids that absorbs moisture from the surroundings. That way your plant can properly uptake the nutrients in the fertilizer.
Posted by
Angie
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What to Look for When Selecting Cut Flowers - Clean and Healthy
Flower stems should be green and smooth, not slimy
Water should smell fresh
No broken stems or drooping buds
Before You Put them into the Vase
Keep cut flowers cool, until you can get them into water
Make a fresh cut an inch or two up the stem, while stems are under water
Make sure the vase and cutting tools are clean
Remove any leaves that will be below the water surface
Use the packet of flower food that comes with your flowers
Caring for Your Cut Flowers - Keep Them Blooming
Keep cut flowers out of direct sunlight and drafts
Change the water frequently (Every other day)
Make a fresh cut each time you change the water
Good Choices for Long Lasting Cut Flowers
Alstroemerias (6-14 days) Very popular, even though most people wouldn’t know them by name. However they are sensitive to fluoride in water and ethylene gas. Keep away from produce.
Carnations (7-14 days) Carnations are extremely dependable. They just keep coming out with new varieties and what colors they can’t breed, they simply dye.
Delphiniums (7-14 days) You can’t beat Delphiniums for shades of blue and purple. Like Alstroemeria, these are sensitive to ethylene gas.
Lilies (7-14 days) Choose sprays with a few slightly opened lower buds. Remove the anthers to prevent pollen from coming in contact with clothing and staining.
Roses (6-12 days) The classic. And with over 20,000 varieties, they never get boring.
Sunflowers (6-12 days) Generally available in late summer. Sunflowers can be top heavy, so use a vase that can support them.
Flower stems should be green and smooth, not slimy
Water should smell fresh
No broken stems or drooping buds
Before You Put them into the Vase
Keep cut flowers cool, until you can get them into water
Make a fresh cut an inch or two up the stem, while stems are under water
Make sure the vase and cutting tools are clean
Remove any leaves that will be below the water surface
Use the packet of flower food that comes with your flowers
Caring for Your Cut Flowers - Keep Them Blooming
Keep cut flowers out of direct sunlight and drafts
Change the water frequently (Every other day)
Make a fresh cut each time you change the water
Good Choices for Long Lasting Cut Flowers
Alstroemerias (6-14 days) Very popular, even though most people wouldn’t know them by name. However they are sensitive to fluoride in water and ethylene gas. Keep away from produce.
Carnations (7-14 days) Carnations are extremely dependable. They just keep coming out with new varieties and what colors they can’t breed, they simply dye.
Delphiniums (7-14 days) You can’t beat Delphiniums for shades of blue and purple. Like Alstroemeria, these are sensitive to ethylene gas.
Lilies (7-14 days) Choose sprays with a few slightly opened lower buds. Remove the anthers to prevent pollen from coming in contact with clothing and staining.
Roses (6-12 days) The classic. And with over 20,000 varieties, they never get boring.
Sunflowers (6-12 days) Generally available in late summer. Sunflowers can be top heavy, so use a vase that can support them.
Posted by
Angie
comments (0)
Taking a little literary latitude,you need the correct pot for the specific indoor plants you are choosing for your home. The plants purchased in a container may make you feel as if the choice has been made. You need to analyze whether the pot will provide your houseplant with the growth space or soil it will require. Quite often purchased indoor plants are stuffed into a pot which either has little room for growth, poor soil or both.
A large pot will provide for rapid root growth. However,sometimes this is not favorable to the plant and it will be detrimental to its growth and can result in falling leaves or the plant may die. Each houseplant is different in this respect and it will be your job to determine what is best for your plants. This can also lead to excessive water rentention so you have to watch the pot size.
In contrast a smaller pot has less soil for your indoor plants to absorb nutrients. The smaller pot restricts the plant from rapid growth and the plant grows much slower. The two conditions frankly offset each other which leads to about the same amount of time for repotting of a specific species. It is important that you don't allow the plant to become root bound. Repotting will be necessary at one point but the diameter of the pot should only be increased by about 1-2 inches to allow for good healthy growth. I had a specific opportunity to observe this in my home when I moved a Croton plant too rapidly from one size pot to another. The plant's growth was stunted for several months and leaves began to drop. It fortunately revived from this situation but this may not happen in every case.
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Angie
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Late spring frosts frequently catch even the keenest gardener. The first thing to do is to purchase some horticultural fleece, available at most garden centres or horticultural stores.
If the vulnerable plants in question are not too big, this fleece can be hung over the plant or pinned against a climber on a wall, the fleece is then removed the following morning.
Protecting those tender young flower and fruit buds in this way can reap rewards later in the season with a wonderful, healthy floral display or a glut of fruit.
It is also important though to keep an eye on the weather forecasts at this time of year. They are usually quite reliable, and give us gardeners some notice if a cold night is on the way.
If the vulnerable plants in question are not too big, this fleece can be hung over the plant or pinned against a climber on a wall, the fleece is then removed the following morning.
Protecting those tender young flower and fruit buds in this way can reap rewards later in the season with a wonderful, healthy floral display or a glut of fruit.
It is also important though to keep an eye on the weather forecasts at this time of year. They are usually quite reliable, and give us gardeners some notice if a cold night is on the way.